The Color Advisor

Buying the Right Foundation Makeup

2012-01-23T08:19:00.000-08:00

It is my intention to create a separate blog about makeup sometime in the not too distant future. My own line of makeup - ColorPerfect - is sold online at www.colorperfectstore.com I have had over 25 years experience helping women find makeup that is right for them. Being a very pragmatic (read 'frugal') shopper myself, it pains me to seetthe amount of money that is spent on makeup that disappoints the buyer.

Makeup will disappoint when the color sits on top of the face instead of blending with it. Or when it turns out to look different on the skin than it did in the store lighting. Women often find they they don't like what they've bought but are reluctant to throw it away because of the cost. I've seen women with huge stashes of makeup they've had for years......too costly to throw away.....too 'wrong' to wear. Here's a tip on shelf life. Liquid makeup has a relatively short shelf life. If you smell an off-odor the oil in it (unless it's oil free) has gone rancid. Toss it. Cream products can separate or go rancid. Powders on the other hand have a much longer shelf life. They can be fine for many years. Loose powders have the very longest shelf life since a pressed powder will have a tiny bit of oil in it to hold it together.

Foundation makeup is any cosmetic product that you use over the majority of your facial skin to minimize minor imperfections and even out the tone. It can also add some sun protection. Foundation is what makes our skin look flawless, healthy, and even.

Foundations can be liquid in a bottle or tube; solid in a stick or compact; powder- either pressed or loose; have sheer coverage or be almost opaque; and have a matte or pearly/dewy finish. Lots of choices. Lots of decisions. Which one is right for you???

It depends on a few different things. How do you want your skin to look? Are you reluctant to completely cover your freckles? Do you want to look flawless and matte? Dewy and glowing? Does wearing a foundation make your feel like your skin is somehow "dirty".

How much effort are you willing to put into foundation application? Do you need something that you can throw on in a nano-second or are you willing to take a couple of minutes with your foundation each day. How much do you need to cover? Is your skin fairly flawless to begin with or do you have freckles, sun spots, capillaries, blemishes, or color variations that you want to hide? Do you want to wear a foundation that provides sunscreen protection as well? Many foundations offer that bonus today. And lastly, what kind of skin do you have. Is it oily or dry and flaky? Or like the majority of us.....a mix.

Foundation that doesn't match our skin well will leave a tell tale color change where it ends under the jaw or at the side of the neck and distort your natural color harmony. It can be challenging to find the right color. Color names are not much help. Store lighting is inadequate for the job. And any product that is packaged so that you can't even get at it until you've already bought it is a risky and uncertain venture.

If you want a quick application and sheer coverage I recommend a 'tint'. The ColorPerfect product of this type is Mineral Sheer Tint. Tints are essentially a moisturizing lotion that contains color and in most cases a sunscreen. You get 3 in one. Moisturizer, a bit of color, and sun protection. This product will not effectively mask blemishes or uneven skin coloring. What it does is layer over a sheer bit of color much as panty hose would do on a leg. You put some in your hands and apply it all over like a moisturizer at the start of your day. Quick and easy.

My next post will continue this discussion and cover the pros and cons of other foundation formulas and the best way to get a good color match.

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Color Intensity - Is it even more important than hue?

2012-01-11T05:00:00.000-08:00

Blue is a hue. Green is a hue. So HUE is pretty interchangeable with the word COLOR. Many people believe that a color analysis will determine what hues they look best in. That is true to a degree but it's incomplete. A color analysis should determine not only which hues they look best in but also which intensities and which values. In fact, the specific intensity of a hue and the value of that hue is just as important as the color that it is. In the case of some palettes it may even be more important.

Case in point: a sea foam green in a slightly muted (neutralized) intensity could make your skin appear flawless. But move that very same hue into a much more muted version and it might suddenly make you look like you're in need of a blood transfusion.

A clear red might look excellent worn near your face, but that very same color (hue) in a bright intensity could upstage your skin and eyes. While a person might fare well in low to medium color intensity OR medium to high intensity, it's unlikely that someone would be equally flattered by both low and high intensity color.

Sometimes fabric will play a role in the apparent intensity of a hue. Imagine the same color in a patent leather and a matte jersey. Picture black worsted wool and black velvet. The surface nap of a fabric (or lack of it) might interpret a hue in a soft subdued way or in a sharp bold way. This can increase or decrease the flattering affects of colors.

It's important to key into the intensity level that optimally compliments your coloring. That intensity level will act as a common thread through your entire wardrobe.

The Essential Colors system has 16 different color harmonies. For some of these harmonies the dominant characteristic of the palette is a very specirfic color intensity. In others, the dominant characteristic might be the temperature or values of the hues with intensity of secondary importance. But intensity is always important.

The main thing to know is that the primary goal of a personal color analysis is to discover and then be able to recognize, buy and wear the specific "kinds" of colors that will improve the appearance of your skin, eyes and hair and that the intensity of those colors is as important as the hues.

Color Analysis for Women of Color

2011-12-12T04:19:00.000-08:00

I see very few women of color in my studio. I wish that were not the case. But unfortunately, women of color are less likely to be interested in seeing a color consultant and especially a caucasian one. "What does a white woman know about my coloring?" they might think. Some women of color think that the process of color analysis is really only for women with light skin tones and that dark skins are all suited to pretty much the same colors. But nothing could be further from the truth. There are variations in darker skins just as there are in light skins.

Back in the 80's and 90's when there were only 4 generic palettes most women of color were typed as being in the 'Winter" color palette. Few were given a palette that was ideal for them unless they were lucky enough to find a skilled personal colorist who could create an individual palette for each client. These consultants were few and far between back then and are only slightly less scarce in 2011.

Just as they found that many makeup lines had few flattering choices for their coloring, women of color given seasonal color palettes back in those days were usually very aware of the shortcomings of the seasonal color harmonies to properly flatter their darker, richer coloring. Subsequently, they had very little interest or belief in a trend that seemed to not include women with their coloring.

For many years (about 20), I taught personal color classes in the city of Boston. This put me in an environment where I was far more likely to analyze women (and men) of Chinese, Japanese, Hispanic, Indian, Carribean, African American and Middle Eastern coloring. People that would probably never come to my home studio in a primarily white suburb outside of Boston for a color analysis consult. This was by far the greatest perk of teaching adult ed classes in a big city for me. It allowed me to show women of color that they had their own beautiful array of enhancing colors.

Darker skins tones can be warm....or cool.....or somewhere in between. Darker skins might be enhanced by colors that are bright, subdued, clear, soft, sharp, rich, muted, or toasted BUT certainly not all of these intensities. The value contrast between the color values they wear is also important. And on top of that, what looked great on them at 20 might not work well at all when they are 50 or if they change their hair color.

I would advise women of color to try to find a color consultant who creates individual or personal palettes. Short of that, they will still do well if they find an experienced consultant using a color system that offers a minimum of 16 different color categories.

It's sometimes easier to use photos of men to make my point since makeup colors aren't part of the equation. The young man in the bright orange shorts and jacket is completely upstaged by his outfit. The warm orange color is at odds with his decidely cool skin tone and its brightness, which is heightened by the sheen of the fabric, makes it difficult for us to focus on him. This model is not enhanced by bright or warm colors. This outfit wears him. But the object of this photo was not to enhance or call attention to him. It was to give the outfit center stage which is exactly what it does. That's fine if you are a model selling clothing but not if you wish to be seen in your most flattering light.

Color Your Way to a Well Organized Closet

2011-11-11T17:29:00.000-08:00

There are many formulas for organizing your wardrobe in your closet. Some say you should hang all your jackets together; all your pants together; all your tops together, etc. Others say to group outfits together by hanging tops that go with bottoms....but who amoung us these days buys many matching outfits? Not many. Some say to hang all your 'longs' i.e. pants, long skirts, and dresses together and all your 'shorts' i.e. shirts, blouses, and shorts together.

While these formulas have some merit, I would argue that grouping all of your wardrobe pieces by color is not only visually attractive, it's also the most efficient and intuitive way to find what you are looking for. If you want to put away your gray slacks you know to stick them in with all the other gray items in your closet. If you want to find your pink top, you know it's going to be somewhere in with the reds....because pink is a light value of red. It's a no brainer. I urge you to give it a try. Here is my suggested plan for a wardrobe that is organized by color family.

a) Group all blacks, then greys, then browns. Remember that the brown family will include brown related neutrals like tan, beige, camel, etc.
b) Next to the browns put all your whites and white related colors. This will end the BASIC NEUTRALS section of your closet.
c.) Next to the whites put your navy blues if you have them. Navy is a secondary neutral or "optional" neutral and will lead you into the colored section of you wardrobe.
d) Next to any navies, place all your blues flowing to any blue/green shades
e) Let the blue/greens lead you right into your greens and then yellows
f) Follow the yellows with any orange colors; then corals, then reds
g) Finish by letting your wine reds flow to plums and then purples

Stand back and look at the wonderful color spectrum that lives in your closet.

The best wardrobes will have colors that share a similar intensitiy. That intensity should be the one that works perfectly with your coloring. When you buy clothes in your personal best palette, they will automatically have a common intensity that makes them all work well with each other.

Enjoy knowing exactly where to reach for your slate gray slacks or your chatruese tank top. Color is the key to so many good things.

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Remembering Marlene Tarbill

2011-09-13T12:12:00.000-07:00

One of my most influential mentors was the late Marlene Tarbill of Sao Paulo, Brazil. I met Marlene in Boston while her American husband was working for a company that was building the now infamous road project that came to be known as The Big Dig.

She stood less than 5 feet tall but had a presence bigger than life. She loved to brag that she didn't have to wear high heels to make her look taller. She packaged herself perfectly from her head to her toes every day of the week and she taught me so much about color and personal style that being with her was like a master class. We'd go shopping at Sak's and Neiman's "just to look". Not to buy. She only rarely 'bought'. But when she did it was because she had found the perfect color, silhouette, style, and fabric for her compact and curvaceous body. She would pay "whatever it costs" if it was right. And she would keep her clothes for a very long time. She once told me that she never packed a certain knit criss-cross top she owned in her regular luggage. Always in her carry-on. Because if she ever lost it she would be devestated.

She was an expert color consultant and she walked her talk every day. I remember one day, about 20 years ago, I went to see Marlene wearing something in a color that I had comprimised on. I comprimised color for price. It was a terrific deal, but the color was just off. The first thing she said to me was "That color has nothing to do with you!". Since English was her 2nd language, she often had interesting ways to get her point across. But I knew what she meant and I knew she was right. I love that she never took the position that you can and should wear any color. She knew that wearing colors that didn't relate to your body did an injustice to your natural beautiful design.

I miss you Marlene. Your words come back to me over and over. If there is a heaven, I'm pretty sure you have got all the angels wearing their best shade of white. Below are two pictures of Marlene wearing prints combining black with another color. Can you tell which of the two color combinations are right for her?

Choosing Colored Eye Shadows

2011-08-30T04:21:00.000-07:00

Ideally, eye shadows should do one or more of the following:

Reduce the prominence of overly protruding lids

Bring forward areas that sit too deep

Emphasize the crease between the upper and lower lid except in cases where the crease is overly deep

Call attention to the eye color by repeating but not overpowering the natural eye colors

Call attention to the eyes by introducing a subtle compliment (contrast) to the natural eye color.

Not much of an eyeshadow gal? If you have only one eyeshadow, I would recommend it be a shade a few shades darker than the skin on your eyelids and in a brown tone that is perfectly compatible with your skin tone. this color can be placed in an area that would benefit from seeming to sit back just a bit. For some, this may be the crease area. For others it may be a little puffy area in the inner corners just next to the nose bridge. And for others, those whose eyes sit very forward in the socket, it might be the lid area from the lashes up to the crease.

This brown shade would be your all-purpose "meat and potatoes" shadow. It would look good with anything and everything you wear. The challenge is finding the shade of brown that is perfect on you. How light or dark it is will depend on how light or dark your skin is. What shade of brown will depend on your natural skin tone. In my Color Perfect makeup line, I have about 15 different shades of brown. Some are plum-my browns. Some are taupe-y browns. Some are mochas, cocoas, or sandy browns. None of them are highly frosted or sparkly because sparkles have no place in an everyday all-purpose shadow. And high shimmer or sparkles emphasize any crepeyness or wrinkles in the eye lids.

Women with smooth skin around their eyes can certainly wear sparkly shadows if they want to but they are best reserved for evening. Sparkly eyelids during the day are the flip side of wearing tennis shoes to a formal wedding.

OK. There are degrees of sparkly-ness (I just made that word up). Some shadows have a subtle shimmer or a pearly quality and they can be worn by smooth lidded women pretty much anytime.

It's surprising how many shadows have sparkles imbedded in them. Especially in those palettes containing 40 shades of shadow--only 4 or 5 of which you would look good in or ever actually wear.

After you find your perfect brown, you can expand your repertoire of shadows to include a light also neutral shade to bring recessed areas forward. This would be used just under the eyebrow, or possibly on the eyelid itself if your lower lid or upper lid is recessed and appears too dark or deep. Then perhaps a dark skintone-compatible shade to use as an eyeliner if you're so inclined. Only at this point do you need to venture out into the wild and zany world of eyeshadow 'colors'. But choose carefully. It is your eyes we want to see. No eye makeup color should make a visual statement that will upstage your eyes. They are the main point of communication and the jewels of your face. Make them up as you would mat and frame a piece of art. Just as you should choose a mat color and frame style to perfectly compliment the art it surrounds, you should choose eye shadows that quietly enhance the eyes and draw people into your focus.

Dressing a Group - Can One Color Fit All?

2011-08-16T07:58:00.000-07:00

When choosing a color that will be worn by a group of people, how do you pick a color that will look good on all skin tones, eye colors, and hair colors? There are three colors that while they may not be optimally flattering on all people, they are never unflattering on anyone. These colors are great choices when for example you are:

Choosing a color for a dance group
Choosing bridesmaids dresses
Choosing a color for work *uniforms or smocks
Choosing a T shirt color for sports, team, road race participants, or a company

The three colors are:

Coral Pink
Turquoise
Periwinkle

Each of these colors are a blend of two colors. None of them are pure primary colors. That's important. But even more important is the color's intensity. Some people are not be flattered by very clear or bright colors and others will not look good in colors that are very muted, colors that have a very dull or dusty quality. So the way to avoid this is to choose a coral pink, turquoise, or periwinkle (blue/puple) that is somewhere in the middle of these to intensity extrememes. Not too bright and not too dull. I'd describe this level of intensity or clarity as 'slightly' muted. JUST SLIGHTLY. It's how your bright colored T shirt might look after you accidentally threw it in the washer with all dark clothing. It would likely come out with that brightness or clarity knocked down a notch.

A slightly muted coral pink (pink with a bit of orange in it); Turquoise (not really blue, not really green); or Periwinkle (purpley blue) will sit comfortably on humans of all different coloring.

If you prefer a neutral. Consider a white that looks like vanilla ice cream. Not snow white. Not chalk white. But also not one that looks yellowy or beigy.

*Note: I am not suggesting any of these colors be used for uniforms worn by men, the military, or those who must communicate authority through their attire. That's another story and a whole different blog. Stay tuned.

Are You Ready for Your Second Act?

2011-08-10T10:17:00.000-07:00

We all have the many advantages of youth working for us for the first half of our lives. Healthy, shiny, predictable hair. Smooth even-toned skin. Good vision. Firm bodies, etc., etc. But for all of us, the second half of our lives, whether it starts at 35, 40, or 45 will definately present a whole new set of rules regarding the care and maintenance of our looks. Strategies need to change to adapt to things like thinning and/or graying hair; disappearing eyebrows; less ability to see to put our makeup on right; faces and bodies that seem to morph into unfamiliar silhouettes; feet that scream in pain from shoes that once looked and felt just fine; the list goes on....but you get the idea. Things need to change in the second half and some of us delay making those changes too long or struggle with knowing what those changes should be.

I call this your second act. It's the point at which you say to yourself "This is the new me. This is the mature and equally wonderful me. I'm ready to evolve into who I've become and dress the body I have NOW and tweak my makeup to flatter the way my hair and face has changed." When you are ready for your second act.....you'll need to know what clothing proportions and silhouettes should now be banned from your closet. You'll need to purge your makeup kit of colors that are too dark, too bright, too frosty, too bland and products that don't give enough coverage for the new you. You'll likely need to consider different options for your hair cut and color.

When you are ready for this journey a skilled consultant who specializes in dress, color, makeup and style can help you strategize the right steps for you. Professional consultants are more knowledgable about what will flatter your figure than 99% of most sales help in clothing stores.They are better informed about what makeup will work for you than the average lab coat wearing sales clerk in a department store because a consultant has studied line, design, optical illusion, color, and personal style expression. NOT how to sell clothes and makeup. And if you've been buying your clothes on line or in catalogs and your makeup from stores with blister-packaged makeup hanging on pegs, you've been at an extreme disadvantage and have likely spent a lot of money on things that have been disappointing or unflattering.

Are you ready for YOUR second act (or third, or fourth)? Call me and shedule your 'Second Act' consult. We'll put you on a beautiful path to a new look that puts the woman you've become in a positive, flattering and authentic light.

Donna Cognac, Professional Color and Image Consultant over 25 years

978-358-8111

What Everyone Should Know About Gray....or is it Grey???

2011-06-24T14:24:00.000-07:00

The color that we think of as a combination of different amounts of black in white can be spelled either Gray or Grey. Both are accurate. "True" gray is going to be a tint or shade that falls between black and white and those variations are often used as a guide to indicate color value....or depth. A grey scale or value scale looks like the image above. Gray could be considered the ultimate neutral. There are some versions of gray found in all personal palettes. But the range of grays that are found in clothing, makeup, and home decor is far greater than those that we see falling somewhere between black and white.

There are cool grays; warm grays; blue grays; green grays; yellow grays; purple grays; and even brown grays (often referred to as taupes). The undertone of a complex gray....that is any gray that is not a "true" gray will be what determines how flattering it will look with someone's complexion or how well it will blend with the other colors in their wardrobe. True grays are the most versatile. Complex grays will be more fussy about who they keep company with.....without arguing.

The grays seen on the left are examples of warm and cool grays. You can almost see a hint of yellow in the grays at left and a hint of blue in the grays on the right. The warm grays would blend nicely with a warm red like brick red while the grays on the right would look perfect paired with a raspberry red. Combined the opposite way, something would seem slightly 'off'. This is why we should not consider all grays to be equally versatile as a neutral and why it is important to know what shades of gray are the best compliment to our own complexion.

Gray is usually a color that needs help. By itself it is pretty boring and it begs for an accent or contrast color. If you are wearing gray, pay attention to the color of your accessories and your makeup. Few people can wear gray by itself with good effect. A man should wear a tie with color when he dons his gray business suit. Not an almost equally neutral tie like navy. A woman can add a scarf, a necklace, or some great color on her lips.

As a wardrobe staple, gray is one of those colors that earns its keep. It is classic, easy to mix with colors of the same undertone and has a nonverbal energy that is seen as either businesslike or elegant. It is NOT really a playful, sexy, or feminine color. Use it as a wardrobe color when you want to appear reliable, traditional, understated, trustworthy, dependable, or authoritative.

Use it in your home as a neutral backdrop that you won't tire of quickly. Be sure to choose a gray that has a similar undertone to the white trim paint...if you have white trim paint.....or to the undertone of any stained wood in the room to avoid a conflict that will just never seem quite right.

ColorPerfectStore.com -- An Online Shop that Makes Color a Priority

2011-04-29T05:19:00.000-07:00

How many lipsticks have you bought only to toss them in a drawer....or the trash once you've tried them on? After much planning and dreaming we have launched an online store designed to make it easy to order makeup, skincare, and quality tools like brushes and the best magnification mirro ever- in a secure environment that caters to women who want to buy products that offer good value and something a little bit different. A guide to colors that work well with their personal coloring.

Not all makeup products are "palette specific". Things like mascara, shadows, brow products, and in particular foundation cannot be suggested for a partilcular color harmony because within every palette there will be a range of coloring. However, when it comes to makeup that comes in shades of red such as lipsticks and blushers, we can suggest all the shades that are 'compatible' with your personal color palette.

Shoppers can make a visual assessment of these shades and choose the ones that conform with their desired look be it natural, dramatic, or conservative. Currently there is a link from the site to a lipstick chart that indicates all of the shades that will work with each of the 16 Essential Colors palettes. Soon a second chart will be available for women who have been "seasonally" color typed. Other charts to come will do the same for blushers.

The products at ColorPerfectStore.com are chosen from a variety of sources and manufacturers. We strive to sell only products that are hypoallergenic and not animal tested. We get our mascara from the company that we think offers the best mascara. We get our mineral powder from the company that offers the highest quality mineral makeup. We have no allegiance to any one source and want only to offer customers what we feel is the best available private label products in each category.

We also offer a level of personal service not usually extended by online shops. E mail us your questions and we'll respond. For a limited time, you can use a promotion code of dcis2011 for a 15% discount off your entire first order.

Let us be your cosmetic source. In stock orders will ship within 2 business days and payment can be made by PayPal or any major Credit Card.

White is Right....For Everyone! Or is it?

2011-03-31T09:23:00.000-07:00

There was a period in fashion several years back when fashion dictators and magazines advised that every women should have white T shirts and white collared shirts as basic layering components in their wardrobes. No mention was ever made of the fact that the kind of white most of us think of and that is most commonly available, a true white, might not flatter all of us equally well. No mention was ever made that the play of white against black might have too much contrast for some. This was just another one of the one-size-fits-all blanket rules we can all find on the runway and in fashion magazines in any given fashion season.

While I believe there is some form of white that will flatter everyone, pure white or snow white can be too bright, too sharp, too cold, or too distracting on a great many people. If you've looked at someone who has had their teeth whitened too white for their natural coloring, you have experienced the disconnect that results from that. Something seems a bit off and attention is drawn unaturally to the teeth at the detriment of the rest of the face that surrounds them. Most dentists will discourage a patient from demanding a white that is too white for their face.....but not all.

A snow white looks best on someone with a cool skin tone. A "vanilla ice cream" white looks good on a great many people as it is fairly neutral. A "cream" white looks good on someone with a warmer skin tone. An "ecru" or "antique" white is wonderful on people with darker warm skin.

White, because it is light, will tend to advance and therefore visually enlarge the part of the body on which it is worn. This illusion can be used to one's advantage when dressing to balance uneven proportions.

Next time you are in a store, select a variety of white colored tops and carry them to a mirror. Place them under your face and notice the effect it has on your skin and how it integrates with your overall look. Look for shades like, snow, cream, vanilla ice cream, oyster (slightly grayed), ecru, antique, and bone.

White carries the connotation of cleanliness, formality, and innocence. In warm climates it makes us feel cool. It goes with virtually all colors and it can be bleached to revive its whiteness. But if the white top you have is too white for you, you might just consider throwing it into a batch of dark laundry. That might be just what it needs to tone it down.

At What Cost......Beauty?

2011-03-08T05:38:00.000-08:00

I opened my e mail today to discover an offer for a 1/2 price service at a local hair salon. It was for a 'Brazilian Blowout'. This is a service that will aggresively tame a head full of curly or frizzy hair into a smooth, satiny looking mane. And the "results can last up to 12 weeks" at which time it will return to it's normal state and require a full priced repeat of the service to tame it back to smooth again.

The 1/2 price voucher would cost me only $175 because the regular price for this temporary beauty service is $350....plus tip of course.

I write about this because I often encounter women who have never and will never discover their most enhancing color harmony because they think it costs too much.

Discovering your ideal color harmony gives you a compass that (when adhered to) keeps you directly in the most flattering light you can stand in. It guides you in the choice of clothing, accessories, makeup and hair colors that will show off your skin, hair and eyes to their very best advantage. It saves you from making shopping mistakes that end up being disappointing wastes of your money and shopping time. It goes on increasing your beauty for years.....not a few weeks. And yet, it typically costs no more than a Brazilian Blowout.....or a salon visit to get hilights in your hair.

Let a color professional show you what color can do to make your personal image the best it can be.

Pantone announces 2011 Color of the Year

2011-02-11T08:01:00.000-08:00

In my back yard in a location I can see from sitting at my desk, there is a large honeysuckle bush. It blooms for months and doesn't give up producing blossoms until there is a hard freeze. It attracts hummingbirds all summer and I never tire of watching them flit from flower to flower with seeminly invisible wings. While honeysuckles grow in several different colors, the flower on the shrub in my yard is exactly the same shade as the one that Pantone has chosen to make the 2011 'Color of the Year'.

The Pantone company makes a business of color. Assigning codes to colors like the library does to books. Selecting colors to serve as trends for everything from clothes to paint to applicances. Nearly all manufacturing industries look to Pantone to see what colors are hot.....or going to be hot....so they can plan the colors of their products far in advance. Most people would be surprised to know how very far in advance the trend colors for a given season are chosen.
This is to allow adequate time for the paint companies and textile companies to put the manufacturer of these colors into motion.

The Pantone color of the year is not surprisingly called 'Honeysuckle' and we should expect to see it in spring and summer fashions. The consumer friendly aspect of this color is that it is one of those pinks that almost no one looks 'bad' in. It is neutral in color temperature. Not too warm for cool skin tones. Not too cool for warm skin tones. That neutrality also gives this color a lot of leeway to mix with warm or cool neutrals. If you have been elementally color typed in the Essential Colors personal color system, you will be especially flattered by this color if your palette is #1, #2, #4, #5, or #8 so be on high alert for 'honeysuckle' in the marketplace. You will absolutely glow in it. And since it's almost universally compatible (if not enhancing) with most skin tones, it will make a nice addition to your wardrobe if you are the type that enjoys being on the cutting edge fashion and colors.

Pre-set Color Systems vs. Custom Color Charting

2011-02-07T13:21:00.000-08:00

Personal color consultants offer a wide range of color services depending on the type of system they use; the amount of training and experience they have had; and the color materials they have to work with. The most simplistic form of color analysis would be one that determines the dominant temperature of your skin tone. Are you warm or are you cool? Even that tiny bit of information, if it is accurate, will help you to at least avoid colors with a temperature that is at odds with your skin tone. I'd compare it to buying a tinted moisturizer that comes in two shades. Dark and Light. You would know whether you would look better in one or the other. Unless of course the dark wasn't dark enough. Or the Dark was too dark and the Light was too light. But with a tinted moisturizer....the color is so sheer that if you rub it in and spread it around enough you can make it work even if it's not ideal.

So then you might choose to be analyzed in a color system that has four types, like the well known and ubiquitous Four Season color system. I'll compare this to shopping for a jacket that comes in size small, medium, large, and extra large. Now you have a selection with 4 options.You'll pick the one that fits you best but it's not likely that it will be a 'perfect' fit and it's possible that none of them will fit you well....if for example the small is not small enough or the extra large is not big enough.

Now you consider having your coloring analyzed by a consultant that uses a system of pre-set color harmonies that has 6, 8, 12, 16 or even more distinct color palettes. (Yes, Master Colorists Coralyn Lundell and Sharon Chrisman in Greater San Francisco have a system of 32 palettes) The more options, the greater the chance that the best fit for you will fit you more accurately then if your options were just two or four. You get the picture.

Now let's consider the custom color analysis. Like custom tailoring or custom dressmaking is to clothing, this is the optimal color analysis because it will produce a palette that is color-by-color hand picked from thousands of colors to fit you....and you alone.....exactly. Compare this to custom made clothes that have the sleeves at the exact right length. The bust darts exactly where your bust is and with the perfect amount of bust fullness for YOUR bust. The waist will fall right where your waist falls and the garment will be made to accommodate your curves or lack of them so that when you wear that custom made garment it will look like is was made for you. Because it was. And so is a custom color palette.

So why wouldn't everyone interested in finding their best colors get a custom palette for themselves? Just as most women buy ready-to-wear clothes so do most women opt for a pre-set color palette. Most are not even aware of the custom option. Here are some other reasons why the custom palette is less frequently persued.

Time: It is a labor intensive process. A custom palette can take a consultant between 1 hour and 4 hours to complete. This will be reflected in the price. However, women spend this much time at the hair or nail salon all the time and accept it as the "price" or necessary inconvenience of beauty.
Cost: The amount of training and materials needed to offer this level of color analysis is very expensive for a consultant and that is reflected in the price of the service.
Access: A very small percentage of color consultants offer custom palettes. You'll have to be a detective to find one near you.....if there is one. Or you'll need to travel a distance to the nearest one you can find.

If you are a perfectionist or if you are more enthusiastic about color or personal enhancement than the average woman, you will not be disappointed in the extraordinary accuracy of a palette that is chosen for you an you alone. Addiltionally, it will likley contain more....sometimes many more color swatches than a pre-set palette will.

If the cost of a custom color analysis is prohibitive for you, visit an experienced consultant using a system of pre-set palettes that offers a minimum of 12 types for the best possible results. As long as you are color typed correctly the palette you receive will sufficiently transform your looks and your wardrobe in a positively wonderful way.

Avoid any form of virtual color analysis if at all possible. Results have a high probability of being either partially or completely inaccurate.

Wearing the Wrong Palette? How Can that Be?

2010-12-30T07:21:00.000-08:00

I remember the first time I saw a professional color consultant back in 1980-something, I was told I was an "Autumn", a seasonal category that was one of the 4 possible categories that "all people fit in" according to my consultant and the most commonly used color system being used in color analysis back in those days.

(The photos at left show a woman - not me - before and after learning to use the colors that are essentially optimal for her body coloring.)

I was beyond excited that I was "a season" at all. Any season. I finally had a little packet of fabric swatches to use as a guide for selecting the clothes and makeup that would show me in my personal best colors. Prior to this consultation I had been clueless. If I ever wore flattering colors before my consultation, it had been purely by accident and certainly not consistent. I owned lipstick colors in every version of pink, coral, red, rust, mauve, wine and fuchsia. I struggled to match tops and bottoms so they didn't seem at odds. I had had no direction with color and now......Eureka! I had been enlightened. I rushed out to the stores and began looking for clothes to match my swatches and I discarded a large chunk of my BC (before color) wardrobe. I bought rust and gold and olive and browns and anything else that matched my color swatches, with little regard for whether the style was right for my personality or the cut for my body. Color was king. If I wore my colors I'd look awesome.

I never questioned the accuracy of my new color palette because when I used it to co-ordinate my clothes and makeup my look was noticeably better than it had been BC. My tops matched my bottoms. My lipstick matched my clothes. And my blusher matched my lipstick. I was consistently color co-ordinated for the first time in my life and for me that was a big improvement. It wasn't until I noticed in some vacation photos that while I did look color co-ordinated, I didn't necessarily look enhanced. When you looked at me you saw my colors but you didn't notice me that much. The clincher came when a friend had the audacity to say to me "I'm no expert but I don't think that's a good color on you". I was stunned. What did she know? I had paid a professional to determine my best colors. Out of types A, B, C, and D, I had been clearly designated as a D.

The lesson here is that if you are given the wrong set of colors as your personal best, you may not realize it if you, like I was, are excited just to be color co-ordinated in your outfits. I meet women all the time who were given a palette of colors years ago and they have adhered to that palette for 10 even 20 years! The longer ago a woman had her colors analyzed, the more likely it is they are not ideal for her since early color consultants typically had little training and were working with a color system that was simplistic and limited. This left lots of room for error. Also, a palette that may have been right for her 15 years ago, most assuredly would need adjustment with the passage of this many years. Aging does change our coloring.

Why would women not recognize if they were dressing in colors that didn't flatter them? Because even those of us with a great eye for color and an ability to see what flatter others, will often have difficulty seeing what is best on ourselves. It's hard to be objective about ourselves.

We all have a range of neutrals and colors that are inherently compatible with our body coloring. These colors will seem at home on our bodies. They will bring out the best in our skin. They will draw attention to our eyes and away from any blemishes, wrinkles, or shadows. They will make us look better even without makeup on. And finally.....they will also co-ordinate with each other for a well put-together look. If your wardrobe and makeup colors aren't doing all of those things for you, you're not taking advantage of one of the most effective appearance enhancers we all have the ability to utilize. Color.

Current Color Trend.....Purple in your home.....and on your body!

2010-11-09T10:05:00.000-08:00

Planning to reinvigorate your living space with a bold new hue in 2011? Benjamin Moore sees a shade of purple in your future. In fact, the company’s color trend forecasters have crowned purple the top hue of the coming year. Whether your taste runs to rich wine (Vintage Wine 2116-20) or luscious fuchsia (Royal Flush 2076-20), you’re sure to find an inspiring tone in Benjamin Moore’s 2011 palette.

Don't be afraid of purple. Purples range from orchids, lavenders, aubergines, and grapes to heliotrope, magenta, amethyst, mulberry, violet and magenta. Values from pale tints to the dark purples of the sky at dusk. There's even talk of kitchen appliances in shades of eggplant in our future. If you like following trends or have always wanted to justify using purple in your home....now is the time. But beware of using any strong or bright shades if you plan to put your home on the market. Those pictured here are good examples of purples that work well in home decor. Choose a subtle muted or "neutralized" intensity in a light to medium shade for walls. Darker shades can be used as accent colors in things like pillows, drapes, and table linens.

When it comes to clothing, you'll find plenty of purple in the stores right now. Particularly in the plum family. Don't just buy a purple garment because it's trendy. Take your personal color palette with you and use it to select shades that will flatter your skin. There are shades of purple in EVERY palette and the ones in your palette will look great on you whether they are trendy or not.

Introduction to My Book

2010-10-26T07:54:00.000-07:00

When my life allows me the time and despite my lack of writing talent, I'm determined to write a book. I've already written various chapters and they sit as document files on my computer waiting to be pasted into some semblance of order some day. Today I decided to take another step and write an introduction. This seems a more concrete step that might possibly be the impetus I need to get serious about getting this done sooner rather than later. Posting it on this blog is my way of pushing myself. Here it is.

While we waited outside the little chapel as our wedding guests were seated, my fiancé and I could hear our friend from a local rock band playing ‘Color My World’ on his portable electric piano set to the organ setting. It was “our song” and the obvious choice for our wedding day. Then came the signal to enter the chapel as the second song was played. ‘A Lighter Shade of Pale’. Perfect for the occasion since the instrumentals sounded just like church music.

It was 1972 and I had no idea at that time that color would someday become my passion and career. But even back then I did think that the impact of color on objects and people was fascinating. I paid attention to color even as a teenager. I noticed that the color of light produced by different light sources or lamp shades could enhance or reduce the beauty of the people and things that were lit by that light. I recognized that different shades of the same color had a different 'energy'. I knew that my heather green sweatshirt made my skin look flawless and my eye color pop and I knew that a bright shade of white did nothing for me while just the right shade of vanilla was kinder to my skin and made me feel pretty.

A full page article in the Living Pages of the Boston Globe Sunday edition back in the mid eighties grabbed my attention. It was a story about a woman in a Boston suburb who offered a service called color analysis. She would select a range of colors that would be optimally flattering for her clients based on their skin, hair, and eye coloring. She would even pinch their fingertips to see what their blood color looked like as seen through their skin. The colors she selected would then become their guide for wardrobe and makeup selection and would allow them to be seen in the most flattering light. The ‘light’ that is cast by colors that are ideally suited to their unique body coloring.

YES! I thought. This was proof that color influenced the appearance of whatever was directly around it. There is a science….a logic behind it. That excited me. I knew right away that my old green sweatshirt must have been one of my very best colors because it was perfect for my skin and eyes. I couldn’t wait to find out what were my best shades of reds, purples, blues, browns, grays and even whites.

When I called to inquire about the cost of a color analysis my bubble was quickly burst. Having a meager income and frugal upbringing, it was more than I could see myself spending on something superfluous. I passed on making a color analysis appointment that day but thought about it constantly until several months later when I decided that I could wait no more to find my ideal colors. I bit the bullet and scheduled an appointment that would mark the beginning of a new direction in my life's journey.

My color analysis did not disappoint (even though it should have…more about that later) and from that day on my life became a quest to find and wear my very best colors. What’s more, I wanted everyone I knew….indeed everyone in the world to know and wear their best colors. I’d have to quit my job. I’d have to find the best teachers. I’d have to study this analysis process so I could become a professional color consultant. I wanted to open people’s eyes to the ability of color to improve and enhance their lives. I had no idea what a challenging mission that was going to be.

What's Your Color Story?

2010-09-07T07:19:00.000-07:00

Each of us has a color story. A range of colors that are synergistically related to our body's natural coloring. The colors in your color story have the same color temperature, the same intensity, and the same degree of contrast as those that are seen in your skin, eyes, and hair colors.

The definition of synergy is as follows:

The interaction of two or more agents or forces (in this case colors) so that their combined effect is greater than the sum of their individual effects.
Cooperative interaction among (colors) that creates an enhanced combined effect.

All colors shift slightly when seen next to another color. Color specialists call this simultaneous contrast. The color of your skin, hair, and eyes will shift slightly depending on the colors that surround them. In the image above, notice the smaller center box looks pinker on the left than it does on the right. The small box on the right appears less vivid - muddier, because it is overwhelmed by the brighter outer box. The color in both small inner boxes is exactly the same. This is what happens when people where makeup and clothing that is more intense than their own body coloring can handle. Their face seems dulled or muddier.

Not convinced? Here's another example. Again the inner box is exactly the same. But the box on the right almost disappears while on the left the color is vivid and enhanced by the other color. The color of the smaller boxes seem to 'shift' as well with the one on the right appearing more yellow. When you adorn your body by wearing clothing, accessories, and makeup in your color story there is a synergy between your face and your outfit. That synergy enhances both....your face and your outfit...to a degree that is not possible in colors that are not part of your color story.

It is this synergy that a professional color analysis attempts to identify by viewing a large variety of test colors against your skin. To be accurate, the light souce in which this testing is done must be 'balanced' and true. Ordinary flourescent or incandescent lights are not balanced. Northern daylight or specialized lights with a high color rendition rating provide the best possible light in which to perform a color analysis. None of the lighting found on shelves of big box stores have a CRI (color redition index) high enough for this procedure.

Your color story is a harmony in which you will shine. Your skin will appear smoother. Your eyes will appear brighter. Your hair will appear enhanced....if it has not been colored in a shade that is out of sync with your skin tone. Has anyone ever said to you "Wow, you look terrific in that color"? No doubt, you were wearing one of the colors in your personal color story. How did that make you feel? How often did you wear that piece of clothing? I'll bet a lot.

Your color story is fairly consistent througout your life but it does evolve somewhat with time. The colors that were optimal for you at 20 may need to be softened, lightened, or 'tweaked' at 40, and perhaps again at 60. But the shift will be subtle.

If you had a color analysis more than 10 years ago you should consider seeing a professional color consultant again if:

you've lost the swatches you were given as a shopping guide
you never really followed your color recommendations because you were unconvinced they made a distinct difference (they may not have been the right colors)
you've changed your hair color and the colors in your guide no longer look good with the new hair color
your colors used to look great on you but now all or some of them don't work
you were color analyzed in a system that had only 4 color types

If you have NEVER had a color analysis, look for a consultant (sometimes called an image consultant) who specializes in color and uses a system that is either customized or has a bare minimum of 12 color categories. A good color analysis will enhance your appearance and self esteem. It will simplify the process of selecting clothing and makeup colors. It will save you money and time wasted on shopping for clothes that ultimately disappoint. Sticking to your color story will make everything you put on your body relate in the most pleasing harmony.

Color Me Elegant

2010-08-25T18:13:00.000-07:00

Years ago I taught a class in Boston called 'How To Look Elegant on a Budget'. It was pretty popular and I enjoyed teaching it. First I would show pictures of men and women dressed elegantly and I would ask them what they would think of the person in the picture based upon how they were dressed. Inevitably I would get the same answers from the students that I got in every class in which I displayed these pictures. She looks like she is rich; well educated; discriminating; well bred; cultured; gracious; lovely; well mannered; well manicured; well groomed......and so on.

Occasionally there would be the slightly negative response of "high maintenance or unapproachable". But overwhelmingly the students would have determined the people in these pictures as being class acts and they made these assumptions based only on how they were put together.

Then I would hold up my list of adjectives describing the non-verbal impression of Elegant style and all the words they had just said would be there on that list--- proving that the language of dress is UNIVERSAL. Everyone understands it.

Some of the most famous Elegant names are Audrey Hepburn, Grace Kelley, Jackie Kennedy, Fred Astaire, and David Niven. Always impeccable. Always appropriate. Always classy.

Some of us are just born Elegant. Some of us make it a point to become Elegant intentionally like Cary Grant did. But to be honest, Elegant style has taken a hit in recent history as dressing down for almost every occasion has become the norm and T shirts and jeans seem to be the go-to uniform for school teachers to dinner guests.

I'd be hard pressed to come up with many well known people who are such good examples of Elegant style living today. A few that come to mind would be Pierce Brosnan, Condoleeza Rice, Jeremy Irons, Leonardo DiCaprio, and Gwyneth Paltrow.

There are occasions when any of us would do well to dip into the Elegant Recipe Book. Occasions like weddings, Bar/Bat Mitzvahs, court appearances, formal or ceremonial dinners or fundraisers, or just anytime that you would like people to perceive you as being a class act. So here it is. My Elegant Recipe. Choose any of the ingredients from this list to add elegance to your style. Notice how differently you'll feel and how differently people will react to you then when you are wearing your jeans and T shirts.

Elegant Style Ingredients
Fabrics: fine quality wools, pima cottons, silks, linen, cashmere
Cuts: simple lines, minimal details, hidden buttons, timeless styles
Prints/Patterns: Almost none, woven patterns that are tone-on-tone, designer prints on accessories
Fit: Perfect. A key element is perfect fit. Get your clothes altered. Don't settle for poor fit.
Shoes: Bought to match specific outfits; REAL leather
Jewelry: REAL, real stones, real gold, real pearls; expensive (or good fake) watch in classic tank style
Earrings: One in each ear. None anwhere else on your body.
Makeup: flawless, powder and/or foundation unless your skin is naturally flawless; mid-tone lips and cheeks
Nails: well manicured, natural or mid toned colors. No decals, fire engine reds, blacks, or 'fashion' colors
Hair: super well groomed; worn smooth and all one length; never any 'roots' showing, no fashion colors
and here it comes
COLOR:
One of the cheapest ways to look Elegant is with color. Elegants avoid bright hues like the plague. Their closets are filled with neutrals and a few neutralized colors. Black, grey, beige, taupe, creme, ivory, maybe some navy or tan if it suits their coloring. The occasional misty pastel perhaps (no cotton candy pink). These colors give years of mileage and when you pay for good cashmere and wool you will want them to last for years. The color is not what makes the statement. It is the quality of the fabric and the 'make' or cut that gets noticed. And Elegant dressers keep their outfits tonal, often wearing the same (or very similar) color top and bottom.

So the next time you want to look and feel Elegant, reach for or shop for an outfit in one of your personal best neutrals (see your personal color palette for this) or a misty version of your eye color and pull that strand of pearls out of your jewelry box. If you don't have occasion to dress formally buy a beautiful high quality cashmere sweater in one of your best neutrals and wear it with a pair of slacks that have been altered to fit you perfectly.

Want to learn more about Elegant Style? Here's a web site to visit.
http://www.elegantwoman.org/elegant-sophisticated.html

And the Bride's Mom Never Looked Lovelier

2010-08-09T13:38:00.000-07:00

I've rarely seen Hilary Clinton in her ideal colors and wonder if she only just discovered them. Or did a color savy wardrobe consultant help her with these outfits for one of the most special days of her life. Even though I'm not particularly fond of the style of either one of these outfits, the colors are right on the money and are proof positive that wearing colors that are syncronized with your personal coloring produces the most beautiful version of YOU.

Hilary Clinton showed up at her daughter's wedding wearing colors that make her glow. I believe she is a Metal type. She undoubtedly has a secondary type. Possibly Wood based on her energy, but I'm just speculating since I have not consulted with her in person and that's how typing must be done to be accurate. In person. Anything else is just speculation.

All you mothers-of-the-brides or grooms out there, if you have not had your coloring analyzed to determine the colors that make you look the most beautiful, do it today. Then go out to find your wedding outfits in colors from your personal palette. You'll feel confident and look radiant just as Hilary did at Chelsea's wedding.

Lipstick Colors - Choosing The Right Ones

2010-06-21T09:18:00.000-07:00

You should wear your lipstick. Not the other way around. In spite of what cosmetic companies would like us to believe, we should choose our lipstick colors based on our personal coloring and desired affect and not what colors are fashionably "in" at any given time. As I think back to the lipstick color fads I've seen in my lifetime, I remember pearlized white; vampire-ish blackened reds; dark obvious lip liner; and glosses so wet looking they made lips look like patent-leather. With the advent of cool-aid colored hair, can green and blue lipsticks be far behind?

As a color consultant, I used to ask my clients to bring along their lipsticks for evaluation until one day a women brought me a small suitcase of makeup with at least 50 lipsticks in it. Since I cannot take the amount of time it would take to assess large collections of lipstick colors, I now ask clients to only bring the lipstick colors they are "currently wearing".

Why do some of us have so many lipsticks? My answer is that most of us keep buying lipstick colors in an attempt to find ones that looks perfect on us. And often when we do...that color is discontinued by the manufacturer and we can no longer find it. How many lipsticks have you had that you used up to the very bottom of the tube? When you like it so much that you use the whole tube, it is probably perfect or near perfect for you.

Many women buy lipsticks that fail to work because they purchased them from stores that sell sealed products that can't be tried on. Just looking at the color on that little circle color swatch is just not good enough. You do need to try a color on. Other women have large collections of lipsticks they recieved as a free giveway with $50 purchase of some department store brand. What are the chances that these lipsticks are going to look great on everyone? Frugal women are reluctant to throw away lipsticks after spending good money for them. Even though they don't like them well enough to wear them, they keep them for years. Is this ringing true for any of you?

A lipstick wardrobe of 4 or 5 lipcolors should be plenty for any woman. Women should buy lipsticks that harmonize with their skin tone because colors that don't will look 'foreign' on their faces. They will sit on top of the face instead of blending seamlessly and pleasingly with it. People may see the lipstick first.

A professional color analysis will provide a good guideline for choosing lip colors. A custom body color chart by an Essential Colors consultant will give you one complete strip of color swatches ideally suited to your skin tone to use when shopping for lipsticks. Lip colors will need to 'blend' with the colors on that strip. Not necessarily match it exactly.

Here are some basic tips on choosing, buying and wearing lip colors.

Dark lipsticks make most lips look thinner or smaller.
Bright lipsticks call attention to the lips and teeth and often away from the eyes.
Light lipsticks make most lips look bigger and fuller.
Frosted lipsticks exaggerate the appearance of overly dry or lined lips and make lips look bigger.
Glossy lipsticks won't last very long on your mouth.
Glossy lipsticks will creep into lip lines if you have them.
Creme lipsticks have a solid opaque look that masks your lips.
Lipshines or tints allow the lips to show through.
Pearlized lip colors add a glow to the color.
Smell a lipstick to see if it has an off-odor. Oils in lipstick become rancid with age.
If a lipstick tastes bitter on your lips it's spoiled.
Drink through a straw to preserve your lipstick.
Use a lip brush to shape your lips and to get every last drop of the color out of the tube.
A color that looks just like your lips but just a bit stronger is a must-have everyday color.
A too bright lipstick can be mixed with a muted lipstick to tone it done and change its impact

The Impact of Color Breaks in Dress

2010-06-09T06:06:00.000-07:00

First you probably want to know what a "color break" is. It is the point in an outfit where color changes from one color to another. A simple example would be the place where a top meets a different colored bottom. White shirt...brown slacks....color break at the waist. Unless we wear an outfit that is all the same color, there will likely be color breaks at different areas of the body. Even a one color outfit can have a color break if it has obvious contrast with your skin. A short sleeved dark top has an obvious color break on your upper arm if your skin is light.

A color break attracts the eye and causes the eye to follow it. If it is horizontal like the one at your waist, the eye will follow from left to right. If it is vertical, like the one we see when a dark jacket front is left open to reveal a light top worn underneath, the eye of the viewer will follow it up and down. The impact of the break is of little importance when the two colors have very little contrast. It's when colors of very obvious value or hue contrast meet that they will impact the 'apparent' visual shape of your body.

So why is this worth writing about? Because unless you have ideal body proportions, you can flatter your figure by paying attention to where color meets color in your outfits. Judicious color breaking can make you look taller, shorter, wider, or thinner. Parts of your body that you wish to look thinner should not have horizontal color breaks. Not just in obvious places like the waist or hips but other parts of the body. Heavy calves? Avoid capri length pants that put a horizontal break at the calf. Heavy upper arms? Avoid a short sleeve that breaks around the fullest part. Wide hips? Avoid contrasting jackets or over tops that that end at the fullest part of your hip.

Since far more of us need to use this trick as a visually slimming strategy I am focusing on that but the same rules apply if there are parts of your body that need widening. An example would be that rare bird with a very long slim neck. While this 'body particular' is considered by many to be a real asset when clothed in a deep plunging V neckline the visual result is overkill and the neck seems excessively or disproportionately long and slim.

Short legs? In the two photos above, in which photo does the woman appear to have shorter legs? Left or right? This model has two color breaks that are impacting her horizontal proportions. First she has a top that contrasts with her bottom and the point of contrast is well below her waist...shortening her perceived leg length. Second, she is wearing capri length pants that do the same. While the contrast is not as extreme as it might be if the contrast were greater, as it would be in black and white, it is still impacting the perceived impression of her body proportions. In the picture to the left she has visually lengthened her upper body and shortened her lower body. In the picture to the right, I have changed the length of her top and that one step alone makes her legs appear longer and in better proportion.

If your legs are proportionately short there are only two ideal hem lengths if there is to be an obvious color break. Very short or very long. As in....no bermuda length shorts, capri length, or 'high water' pants. The horizontal break will visually shorten your legs. And if you are not at the beach; are over 25 years old or over weight....skip the short shorts.

This is not to say that you can't wear shorter pant lengths in warm weather. It just means that if you do buy them, make sure there is very little color contrast to draw the eye between the color of the pant and the color of your skin. I'm focusing on strategies for short legs here because there are few women with long legs trying to make them look shorter but the truth is, women with very long legs and very short torsos could use these strategies to make their proportions appear more balanced.

Do you have a 'body particular' you find challenging to dress? Your welcome to tell me about it in the comment box and I will suggest the best color break strategy for you.

Should You Decorate Your Home With 'YOUR' Colors?

2010-05-27T11:30:00.000-07:00

The answer to that question is yes, no, maybe, and it depends. Your personal color palette is one that illuminates your skin, hair, and eyes when worn in close proximity to your face and body. The bounce or reflection of these colors will have a syncronistic relationship with your color design that is mutually beneficial to both you and your attire.

Now does that hold true for your decor as well? To a degree yes. You may want to consider using your personal palette as a guide for choosing wall colors in your home. Surely you'll look fabulous when the backdrop you stand in is showing you in the most positive light. Right? But what if your palette is one that is psychologically warm in temperature and you are decorating a south facing room in a hot place like Florida? The result of using a warm wall color would be to make inhabitants 'feel' psychologically warmer in a part of the country where keeping home interiors feeling cool is a better strategy. If your personal color palette happened to be decidely cool in temperature, using it to decorate your home in Alaska would make your home's interior 'feel' colder.

My opinion is that one should use colors to create the energy they want in that room and to have that as their first priority. They can consult their personal palette to look for options that will help create that energy. Doing so may require you to ignore your personal best colors or to either neutralize or clarify the hues that are in your palette. If someone wants to create a room with high energy and they want to use green for example, they could choose a green tone from their palette and look for paint chips that repeat that hue but in a softer intensity or lighter value. Remember that high intensity colors are psychologically energizing and are not the best choices for bedrooms or rooms designed for relaxation.

Eye colors and skin colors are wonderful for the walls of bedrooms and bathrooms. A custom body color charting consultation with a color analysis professional would provide you with the swatches you'd need to match paint chips at the store. These specific hues would repeat and flatter your coloring in those intimate environments. Skin tones are neutrals and can be taken to a lighter or darker value to provide a bit of contrast to your skin. Blue, gray, green, and light brown eyes are great starting points for choosing wall colors in these rooms. Those with very dark brown eyes might prefer to use their skin tone since dark colors make rooms feel closed and small.

Neutrals are extremely practical wall colors. Any of the neutral tones in our personal palettes can be used as a guide for flattering wall colors that lend themselves to a wide range of colored home accessories. Neutrals have the additional advantage of being very 'livable' for a very long time. Colored walls can get old fast. Unless you like to repaint fairly often, it's safer to use neutrals or near-neutrals on the walls and use more pronounced colors in room accessories, window treatements, wall decor, pillows and such. Things that can be changed out to give a room a whole new look to reflect changing seasons or when you're just ready for a new look.

Strong colored walls are more successful in rooms that we don't spend as much time in. Dining rooms or bathrooms for example. Red dining rooms have been popular in recent years. This was a perfect place to use red. Not only is the dining room less used, red is also an appetite stimulant. BUT a psychologically 'cool' version of red like magenta, watermelon or raspberry would not work as well as a warmer red like brick, clay, poppy, or tomato in a dining room. So those with cooler personal palettes should avoid their reds for dining rooms.

For north facing, basement or windowless rooms....I'm a advocate of using yellow in any room that does not receive sun light. That's not to say that I wouldn't use yellow in a room that did have sunlight. Can you ever really have too much sunshine in your life??? Choose slightly to very muted shades with some warmth and avoid lemony tones of yellow. Think butter, maize, straw, and gold.

Anyone with an interior wall color question is invited to ask me in the comment section of my blog page or through Facebook.

So You Want to be a REDHEAD

2010-04-22T11:04:00.000-07:00

Red....when it's on your head....is more than just a color. It's a statement. It's unique in that it's

the most uncommon hair color. Unlike gray, brown, black, and most blonde haircolors which are neutral - it has color. It's like an instant accessory that you wear 24/7 and with every outfit. The number of adult woman with truly red hair is fairly rare. But the number of adult women with not-so-truly (as in colored) red hair far outweighs them. Women who choose to color their hair red are concisously or subconciously seeking to add a little sumpin-sumpin to their image.

Red has an energy that demands to be noticed. Coloring your hair red can add some fun and excitement to your life. It can attract more attention. It can be the perfect solution when you want to "kick your image up a notch". The good news is that when and if you pass the phase that made you want to try being a red head, you can just color it back to your normal shade. The bad news is that if you color your hair a shade of red that conflicts with your skin tone, you'll do more damage to your apperance than good.

Red hair is rarely actually red. It's usually orange or red/orange. Orange hair on pink toned skin is like nails on a blackboard. It's like two adjacent keys on the piano being played at the same time. It's like a hot pink sofa being pushed up against a rust colored wall. It doesn't go. One must take care to choose a red hair color that will not fight with the skin tone. The only red hair color that will work well with pink or cool skin tones will be one that leans toward a plum or burgundy red. Those shades do exist in hair color products. They are not really natural looking because red hair isn't plum colored. It's orange. But if you don't care about looking "natural" it can be a fun fashion color to dabble with. Be careful that you don't have light or gray hair on your head as it will fade to pink because the undertone of these shades is violet.

If your skin is neutral or warm, you are the best candidate for a walk on the red side if you are so inclined. Expect to have to tweak your makeup colors. Don't expect all hair salon colorists to be expert in determining your skin tone. Visit a professional color consultant for advice on how red hair might work with your skin before taking the leap and you'll be happy with your new look.

Home Coloring Your Gray Hair - What Product Should You Use?

2010-04-16T05:18:00.000-07:00

The previous blog discussed the decision to color your gray hair or not. If you have chosen to color and plan to do so at home, what over-the-counter product works best? I'm no expert but the folks that run Consumer's Union and publish the Consumer's Report magazine are- in respect to putting products through rigorous tests and comparisons to see which ones perform best. In their May 2010 issue they turned their magnifying glasses to "Hair Dyes" and based their scores on:

gray coverage
ease of use
features

Clairol Textures & Tones, a product designed for women of color, came out in the lead with L'Oreal Paris Superior Preference running a close second. Both are permanent colors. If it's a semi-permanent color you want Clairol Natural Instincts, came in third. Incidentally, it's important to use the conditioning products that come packaged with these dyes to get the best result. They are designed to lay the hair's cuticle back down and make the color last better.

If you want to manage your own hair coloring, it's important not to stray too far from your natural coloring. If your skin has been determined to be distinctly cool choose an ash or neutral/natural hair color tone. If your skin has been determined to be distinctly warm choose a warm or neutral/natural color. Warm hair colors next to cool skin tones will conflict and undermine the clarity and glow of the skin. Ditto for cool hair colors next to warm skin tones. Some people have skin tones that strattle the line between warm and cool. I call them neutral. In that case, you can safely try colors on either side of the fence. People with warm skin tones in their youth can become more neutral with age as skin becomes thinner. But warm skin will not likely ever become cool. Cool skin will not likley ever become warm. Know your skin tones "temperature" before choosing to color your hair. Or tell your salon professional what it is if he or she suggests you try a color that you know will be at odds with it. Most hair colorists are not taught to test clients for skin tone. They are taught to color hair. Some believe that any color can work on you as long as you change your makeup. That works in Hollywood......sort of. But not for most people who don't want to have to wear a mask of makeup in order for a new hair color to seem like it belongs to the face that is wearing it.

Stay tuned to the next blog.....So You Want To Be a Redhead

Deciding to "Go Gray" - A Matter of Personal Choice

2010-04-11T16:00:00.000-07:00

Vicki Lawrence as "Mama"

Most women reach a point in their lives where they are faced with a decision about how to deal with graying hair. For many, there's really nothing to think about. The'll cover it. Others wrestle with an unwillingness to be a slave to hair color maintentance costs; a desire to be honest in their appearance; or a fear that somehow using hair color products may be unhealthy.

If gray hair makes you feel in any way "less".....less attractive, less confident, less yourself.....then by all means color it. The only decisions you'll need to make after that is how and what color. The easiest way is to have a salon do it for you. They can see the top and back of your head better than you can. They do the messy work and you go home with fresh color that will last you 4 to 6 weeks if you are lucky. But you will also spend anywhere from $35 to $200 every time you do it. For some that's no problem and well worth it. For others this is an unwelcome financial burden. Even for professionals, coloring with red tones can be very challenging as your percentage of gray goes beyond 50%. The grow-out (root area) on graying dark hair is quickly very visible. There are root touch up products that can help the home colorer with that problem. There are also root touch up sticks that work reasonably well in a pinch.

Coloring your own hair has some limitations but saves a bundle of money. Today, home hair color products are essentially as good as those used in salons. For those bent on having a natural looking range of shades on their head, salon coloring is the way to go. There are drugstore kits designed to produce two toned hair but they never look quite as good as a salon job and the process is challenging to the average home colorer. Most home hair coloring that is described on the box as "permanent" will produce the same color all over the head. Home colors that are deemed "semi'permanent" can produce a variation of color because it may 'take' differently on your gray and colored hairs. But it is less stable than permanent color. It lightens or changes as it washes out little by little with each shampoo.

So if you're ready to say "I'm done coloring my hair" my best advice is to make sure that you have your hair cut and styled to look very current. Avoid any style that looks too round. Does anyone remember the character played by Vicki Lawrence on the old Carol Brunette show seen in the photo above? She played Carol's mother. Vicki's face was so young that stylists had her wear a rounded "bubble" shaped gray wig to try to make her look older.

Long gray hair is rarely a great look although I have seen a few

exceptions. In those cases the hair was still quite thick. Long thin gray hair is aging. If yours is not thick, look for a mid to short length style that looks fresh and contemporary. Possibly even a bit avant garde like an asymetrical or spikey cut. Or wear a classic all-one-length 'bob' if your hair is smooth and your head well shaped. While this is not necessarily a modern look, it never looks dated because it is a timeless classic.

Gray hair need not make you look or feel old and deciding to go gray can be a liberating step. Deciding to go gray after coloring for many years will likely require you to adjust your wardrobe and makeup colors. Your palette will need to be tweaked once you have made the transition. Some colors that worked well for you before won't be as good with your gray hair. Other colors may be added to your palette. The whole palette may require a shift in temperature or intensity. You will want to wear the colors because they will show your new gray hair color in a positive beautiful light.

Virtual Color Analysis on the Internet - A Pale Substitute

2010-04-09T05:50:00.000-07:00

I've seen a troubling increase in offers for a 'Virtual' Color Analysis on the internet. Great idea you might think. It's less expensive. You won't have to drive to the nearest consultant 50 miles away and the cost is probably lower. Why not?

My position on this trend is that if you want an accurate result with a palette that is ideally complimentary to your unique coloring, your chances of getting that with a virtual color analysis are pretty slim. Your color palette is not determined simply by looking at you. It's determined by looking at how the appearance of your complexion changes when a range of various hues, color values, and intensities are held in close proximity to your face. It's really that simple. This is something that can't be done with any guarantee of accuracy if you are 50 miles away. It can't be done from a photo. Treat yourself to the real thing. If you had a color analysis done over 5 years ago...you should see a consultant again to have your coloring reassessed. Your coloring may be a bit different now. The palette that was ideal for you at 30 may need tweaking at 40. This would definately be true if you were color analyzed using a simplistic approach that places you in only one of 4 color categories. Living in your best colors is a beautiful, comfortable, authentic place to be. When they are right, you will know it. If you haven't found the palette that makes your heart sing and your face glow....keep looking. But not in cyberspace.

Clarify Your Skin With The Right Colors

2010-03-26T07:12:00.000-07:00

Typical imperfections on bare adult skin

The single most flattering advantage of getting a good color analysis is that the right colors will make anyone's skin look clearer. We all want clear looking skin. We all admire clear skin on others. Skin clarity sends a non-verbal message about a person that is universally understood. It conveys a message of youth, good health, good grooming and good genes. We all start out with clear skin. Then life happens. The sun, our lifestyles and diets, gravity, and any number of other outside influences leave their marks to varying degrees in the form of:

freckles
blemishes
sun spots/age spots
broken capillaries
wrinkles (which make shadows)
facial hair
scars
rosacea

All these things make skin appear blotchy and less even. The face appears segmented into darker and lighter shades. Our reaction is often to layer more makeup on in an attempt to cover things up. Others try to acquire and maintain a tan to even things out. Still others will spend money on treatments and procedures that promise a clearer looking skin. But there is a better, safer, cheaper and instant way to get clearer looking skin and that is by wearing YOUR best colors.
Visit the before and after gallery on my website by clicking on this link: http://www.facebook.com/note_redirect.php?note_id=379517751610&h=6a374e99cc99f3b1a8ffca158c1f63d0&url=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.donnacognac.com%2FBeforeAfter.html for examples of this effect. The right colors have a calming and clarifying effect on the skin. By blending harmoniously with the exact tone of the skin, they divert the eye away from little imperfections, shadows, lines, and even beard shadow on men. They're still there....but they don't come to the forefront. With dis-harmonious clothing and makeup colors the eye will be drawn to focus on imperfections.
Wearing the right colors will make your skin look better even when wearing no makeup at all. The flattering affect of the right colors on the skin are subtle but undeniable and every person deserves to know how to use this visual affect to their advantage. Clearer looking skin results in greater self confidence and self confidence is always attractive.

Oscar Gowns - Red Carpet Colors

2010-03-08T07:40:00.000-08:00

Celebrity gowns are rarely ideal colors for those who wear them on Oscar nght. Why would that be? Wouldn't they or their stylists be keenly aware of what colors they look best in? Gowns are usually donated by designers so their names will be mentioned when someone with a microphone on the red carpet asks "Who are you wearing tonight?" The publicity value of having a designer's name mentioned at the Oscar's couldn't be bought for 5 times the price of that gown. So you see...it's a win win situation for both designers and celebs. Last night's Oscar show had hits and misses in the color department. Here are a few of the most obvious.

HITS:
Penelope Cruz (above) wearing a rich dark red that provides an appropriate level of contrast and compliments her coloring exquisitly.

Helen Mirren (at left) in a beautiful and synergistic soft gray with equally flattering contrast to her coloring. Helen gets it right most every year.

MISSES:
Anna Kendrick (right) supporting actress in 'Up in The Air' wore a gown that almost matched her skin tone exactly. This doesn't work. Skin tone colors are great for undergarments because they are less visible through clothes. They disappear on the body. But as outerwear they're a mistake. As outwear, skin tones should be at least 2 shades darker or lighter than your skin.

Queen Latifah (left) wore a pale orchid-pink gown that conflicted with her rich warm skin tone. A similar value in a salmon color would have been more complimentary. Fortunately most gowns worn on the red carpet have low
necklines and bare shoulders. When there is a lot of skin exposed just below the face, the color has less of an impact. These women are all beautiful even in colors that miss the mark but as a colorist, I'd love to see every one of them strutting their stuff in their ideal colors. Future nominees take note. I'm available for consultations.

Someone Colored Me a 'Winter'

2010-03-04T14:23:00.001-08:00

Did someone tell you that you are a Winter 10, 15, 20 years ago? Did you read a book and assume you were a Winter? Did you adopt the seasonal Winter palette as your wardrobe color scheme and make black and white your core basics with accents of true red, cobalt blue, and chrome yellow?

In my experience, 3 out of 4 people who were once told they were Winter color types are not. At least not the classic version of Winter that most people are familiar with. More people have been mis-typed as the seasonal Winter color type than any of the other three seasons. And lots of people who were flattered by the Winter harmony in their youth, no longer have the clarity and intensity needed to look good in those colors when they reach the age of 40, 50 and beyond.

So why have people been mis-typed as Winters? There are a few reasons. Even some of the best known color trainers back in the 70's and 80's were under the mistaken impression that all people 'of color' and all people of Asian ethnicity were Winters. Color analysis was in its infancy as a popular fashion and beauty concept and people were training new color consultants who had little training and experience themselves. Another reason--seasonal color anlaysis in those days operated under the premise that all humans would fit into one of only 4 color categories. That's like saying that everyone on earth will wear size small, medium, large or extra large. Consultants tried to put you into the one 'size' that fit you best. Only rarely would that option fit you perfectly.

If you had dark hair.....you were a Winter because the other 3 palettes were even less ideal on you. But truth is, not that many people wear the classic Winter palette well and it has an energy that is often at odds with the personality. The sharp contrast of black and white feels too conspicuous. The bold magentas, cobalts, and chrome yellows are too 'loud' for people who prefer dress elegantly. Very little attention was paid to the 'energy' of the colors back then. The optimal palette, must both flatter the wearer AND feel authentic on them.

If you were color typed as a Winter, you owe it to yourself to visit a color consultant that offers color harmonies that are derivitives of the classic Winter type. You may well discover a new color harmony that fits you more like a tailor made jacket than a size Medium. The benefits will justify the investment in your color update. Rarely will a professional analysis cost more than one or two visits to the hair salon....and yet the resulting improvement to your appearance lasts you for many years...not just a few weeks.

Also, rarely will you find a skilled color consultant who does professional level color analysis for less than $100 so a bargain or FREE color analysis is likely to be simplisitic, incomplete or inaccurate. It may not even include the cost of shopping swatches in your ideal colors. Be sure to ask a consultant how long she has been a color consultant. Is it her specialty? How many color types are in her system? Does she offer a custom palette option? What type of swatches does she give her client and are they included in the analysis fee? Are the paper or fabric? And will she stand behind her service and allow you to return to her for a re-assessment if you are not convinced she has given you the right colors after you have tried them out a few months? Even a very experienced color consultant can make the occasional mistake.

Visit http://www.essentialcolors.com/ for certified color consultants offering 16 non-seasonal color palettes.

BLACK - The Pros and the Cons

2010-02-17T05:22:00.000-08:00

Black is probably the most dominant single color in women's fashions. There was a time I can remember that no one would think of wearing black clothing in the summer. Given the fact that black absorbs heat and makes the wearer physically warmer, that made extremely good sense (but we all know that good sense doesn't always dictate fashion design.) I love the story told by the late colorist Kathryn Kalisz about the fast food chain 'Checkers'. Their building design has black and white porcelain tiles on the exterior in a checkered pattern. If you touch the white tiles and then the black tiles, you can feel the difference in temperature.

So why do fashion makers make so many of their fashions in black? And why do women choose to wear so much of it even in hot weather?

Fashion makers stand a far greater chance of selling more pieces if they make it in black. They would take a greater risk with other less versatile colors. Women will buy and wear black even if it doesn't flatter their complexion. So what's the attraction?

Black is easy. It goes with everything; it hides stains better; it makes even cheap fabric look more expensive; it's visually slimming; the cost-per-wearing of a black garment is lower than the same garment in a neutral like...say rust for example; AND it's ever-present in the market place. That's a lot to be said for one color. But, for many people black is a color that doesn't do them any favors if their intention is to look as attractive and healthy as possible. For many, black can be draining. It can pull all the color from the face. It can cast unflattering shadows under the eyes, and around the nose and mouth making you look older or in need of a good night's sleep. That's a high price to pay if how you look matters to you.

If you do look great in black go for it. If you look so-so in black and live in a part of the world where there is a good deal of cool or cold weather go for it. The damage will be minimal and it's probably the easiest color to find when you shop. But if you know in your heart of hearts that black doesn't do for you what it does for some other women. If black is just a no-brainer residing in your closet, I encourage you to try to wean yourself away from a wardrobe that is dominated by black. It takes a bit more effort but you CAN do it...and it WILL be worth it.

Have a professional color analysis and find out all the great neutrals that look wonderful on you and start looking for core pieces for your wardrobe in these colors. Navies, browns, beiges, taupes, grays, creams, camels, dark reds. These are neutrals too. You should have swatches of your best versions of each of these colors to take with you when you shop. If you sew or have someone who can sew for you, have basic pieces like slacks, skirts, etc. made for you in your ideal neutrals. The investment will be well worth it. And if you must wear it, keep black to a minimum in your wardrobe.

Buy yourself one nice evening outfit....dress or pant suit in black. Make sure it exposes some skin near your face. Low necklines and sleeveless tops are good for this. Sheer fabric or lace works too to minimize the visual weight of black near the face. Wear makeup. Define your eyes with mascara and liner.

The Common Thread

2010-02-16T05:42:00.001-08:00

A lot of people have difficulty figuring out how to put colors together so they seem to "work". Whether you're working with colors in a room or in an outfit the same rules apply. In order for colors to have a pleasing relationship they must have a common thread. One common thread could be color temperature. All of the colors in the group could be cool - with a blue undertone - or warm - with a yellow undertone. This common thread will make the colors work together. Another common thread could be value. Value means how dark or light a color is. All colors of the exact same value will have a relationship based on that value regardless of hue. Yet another common thread is intensity. All colors of the exact same intensity will appear related regardless of value or temperature.

When certified Essential Colors consultants analyze someone to find their most flattering color palette, they pay close attention to all of these factors. Some palettes will have a dominant characteristic of temperature. Others of value and still others of intensity. A palette is chosen to "work" beautifully with the natural coloring of the individual being analyized. It's a lot like shopping for furniture and accessories that will look beautiful with the colors that already exist on the walls, carpeting and draperies of the room you want to decorate. The wise decorator would take color samples of those existing room colors when she shopped. The haphazard decorator could wind up with a room full of colors that have no common thread (visualize a hot pink easy chair in a rich earth toned living room). Rooms that we perceive as the most beautiful will always have some common thread.

Every Essential Colors palette has a common thread. I call it the palette's 'dominant characteristic'. That's why shopping with your palette results in a cohesive wardrobe where separates, accessories, and makeup all "work" together beautifully. A cohesive wardrobe color scheme results in the need to own fewer clothes because the ability to mix and match components is much greater. When you need fewer clothes you can afford to spend a bit more. When you can spend a bit more you'll usually get better quality. And when you buy a better quality you'll quickly discover (and love) how much better you feel and look in quality fabrics and construction. You'll notice how quality fabrics drape nicely on the body and look good a lot longer.

Find your personal common thread and you'll benefit in more ways than you might imagine.

Long Distance Training to Become a Professional Color Consultant?

2010-02-14T07:37:00.000-08:00

I sometimes receive inquiries from people who want to know if I can train them to become professional color analysts long distance. My short answer is no. Here is my long answer. Color analysis is a very visual -hands-on process. It also requires a degree of intuitive skills. I compare it to someone asking if they can take a distance learning course to become a professional hairdresser.

It's possible, I suppose, to watch a video or read a lesson on how to cut hair. But would YOU want your hair done by someone who took a correspondence course?

It's certainly easier to try to learn a new skill without ever leaving home but in my personal opinion as a color consultant for 25 years (and with all due respect to colleagues who may be offering distance courses) this is not a skill that can or should be taught long distance. When I do a training, I always ask my students at the end of the course "Do you think you could have learned this without having actually been here in person" and the response is always a unanimous "NO WAY". My advice to all who are considering an image career in which color analysis plays a role, is to find a reputable trainer who specializes in this area and to travel to the training location. One way to be sure the training program meets high standards is to inquire as to whether the course is CEU approved. Even if you have no need for CEUs, Certified Education Unit approval requires a trainer to meet rigid training requirements. Learning outcomes must be specified and met and course evaluations are reviewed by a third party.

Seasonal Color Analysis - Old Fashioned Fad or Timeless Beauty Enhancer?

2010-02-02T07:18:00.000-08:00

Finding out your color "season" came into the public conciousness around 1980 when Carole Jackson published her book 'Color Me Beautiful'. Her book was #1 on the New York Times best seller list for 11 consecutive years. Because of that, a lot of people thought that Carole Jackson invented color analysis. But she would be the first to admit that wasn't the case. She in fact was the messenger. Someone who discovered a pretty exciting idea and thought it would be great if it were public knowledge so everyone could take advantage of it.

The truth is I own books about personal color theory that date back to 1928. I have personal color palettes that were produced in 1960. In fact, Suzanne Caygill, considered the mother of the 'Seasonal' color language was creating personal color palettes as early as 1942.

The seasonal color theory as most people understood it in the 80's was that everyone on earth fell into one of four seasonal types and that type would remain flattering for their entire life.

I liken that to telling people that they will fall into one of four sizes. Small, Medium, Large and Extra Large and that this will be the case for the rest of their lives. Don't get me wrong. I believe in the basic principles of seasonal color theory. I also understand the rationale of using seasonal names for these four very general categories. The colors of Autumn more than any of the other types do certainly conjure up a mental picture of fall foliage. But I believe that those who have been 'professionally' color typed or self typed into one of only four general color harmonies are missing out on so much and that is sad. They are often working with incomplete or inacurate information.

Many people were color typed during a time when color authors and consultants who talked about personal coloring knew just enough to be dangerous. I was one of them. I read a book about color and thought I had it all figured out. Then I went to a "professional" color consultant just to be sure and was typed as an Autumn. I was thrilled. I wore Autumn colored clothing and Autumn colored makeup and suddenly, just because I was color coordinated, I thought I looked better than ever before. Then I decided I wanted to make color consulting my career and I packed my bags and headed to California to attend the same training that author Carole Jackson had taken and I was promptly typed as a Winter! I was traumatized. I'd been living a lie.

In susequent years, I went to multiple professional color consultants and was told I was a Summer, a Winter, an Autumn, and yes.....a Spring. Why was that? In large part, because I didn't really fit into any of those generic seasonal groups. Winter was too sharp. Summer was too dull. Spring was too bright and Autumn was too warm. So it stands to reason that if well trained consultants had a larger range of color groups to choose from, an accurate analysis might have been possible.

Color analysis is not as popular today as it was back in the 80's when most color consultants didn't really have a great handle on what they were doing (myself included). But the principles of personal color theory are very valid. A good color analysis is so very worthwhile. People who discover their ideal color palette have an ace in their pocket. They know how to choose and wear colors that show them in the most flattering light. They have wardrobes that coordinate easily. They tend to look healthier, more rested, more clear skinned and radiant than those who pay no attention to the colors they wear....or wear whatever the newest fashion colors are whether they suit them or not.

If you had a seasonal color analysis at one point in your life, do consider getting another updated one. Even if the colors you were given 20 years ago were right , they may well not be as right for you now. Our palette often does change somewhat with age.

There are fewer professional color consultants today but they are worth seeking out. They are worth traveling to. They are worth their fees. They have invested in training and are usually passionate about color. They are color specialists who can teach you how to take advantage of one of life's most dependable beauty enhancers. They will give you color swatches to take with you when you shop. (make sure they do - if they don't they are not color analysis specialists). Don't be concerned if they don't use the 'Seasons' as their color system. If you go to five different color consultants using five different color 'systems', you should get colors that look essentially the same from all of them....if they are analyzing you correctly. And for the cost of perhaps two trips to the hair salon, you will walk away with a secret weapon to help you look great for a lot longer than those hair cuts will last.

The Essential Colors system has 16 different color harmonies. One of them is right for you. Find a consultant near you or train to become an Essential Colors certified professional color consultant. http://www.essentialcolors.com/

The Color Advantage for Men

2010-01-28T14:23:00.001-08:00

Men have very few ways to improve their appearance aside from getting a good hair cut, perhaps some cosmetic dentistry, and for the few who take advantage of it and would benefit from it--- plastic surgery. Yet every man could use color to put his face in the best possible light. Color Analysis isn't just for women. I can tell you that men love to discover their most flattering colors and are often more faithful to following their palette colors than women are. I've met many men who wouldn't part with their color swatches. While some women will slip back into the old routine of buying "whatever's on sale" or "whatever fits" even after they find their best colors. Then there is the fashion victim who will wear whatever's the latest fashion color. In his 1928 book 'Color Harmony in Dress' Sir George Ashdown Audsley stated that "No sooner has a new color hit the fashion market place than it is adopted by women with complete disregard for whether it suits them or not". Nothing has really changed since 1928. Some women will prefer to be 'in style' over looking their best. They will allow colors to wear them.

Men on the other hand are not usually slaves to fashion dictates. Those who have discovered that some colors make them look smooth skinned and healthy while others hilight their beard shadow and emphasize lines, shadows and blemishes become very faithful to their color palettes. The bad part of this for me as a color consultant is that men don't really talk up their color analysis experience with the guys down at the bar. They keep this little life changing image enhancing secret to themselves lest they be thought of as less-manly. So word of mouth business referrals don't happen much for color consultants that consult with men. It's unfortunate because everyone would stand to gain.

Blogging To Share the Joy and Benefits of Color

2009-12-17T08:06:00.000-08:00

My name is Donna Cognac. I have been a professional color consultant for almost 24 years. I select personal color palettes or 'harmonies' for men and women to wear and I train new consultants to do the same. I help homeowners choose colors for their home interiors to either increase the saleability of their homes if they are selling or to enhance enjoyment of their homes if they are staying.

I am passionate about color. The color on your face, in your hair, on your body, in your rooms, and anywhere you look...can be a wonderful source of pleasure and pleasure enhances your quality of life. To get the most out of color....(and why shouldn't you? It's essentially free)...you need to make conscious color decisions.

In my blog, I'll give you tips to heighten your awareness of subtle but important nuances of colors. I'll tell you why the difference made by adding just a tiny touch of black to a color will also change the energy of that color. I'll show you that an ever-so-slightly blackened color will communicate a very different message from the un-blackened version. Why a pastel blouse that you accidentally washed in a load of dark colors might suddenly be more flattering on you. Why some colors feel "right" on you and others feel in-authentic.

Color is glorious. Used wisely, it can make you look better, feel better and live better. I welcome your comments and questions.